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Rock Climbing Most Frequently Asked Questions
Bren Whelan is one of Ireland’s most qualified and experienced rock climbing instructors. He is the only full Mountaineering Instructors Certificate (MIC) award holder based in the Republic of Ireland delivering mountain training courses. He has spent more than twenty years rock climbing, hill walking and mountaineering throughout the world.
Bren is a full member of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) and is fully insured. Bren is the only fully approved provider of BOS (The Irish Mountain Training Board & Mountaineering Ireland) training and assessment courses in Ireland - (http://www.mountaintraining.ie).
In the article below for Madforsport.com, Bren goes through the most frequently asked questions about Rock Climbing:
1. What is the best way to start in Rock Climbing?
There are a number of avenues open to those interested in learning to rock climb. There is a developing network of climbing walls around Ireland which can offer an indoor climbing experience whenever the mood takes people, regardless of the weather. There is also a good club structure throughout the country. Many clubs are highly active throughout the year and offer guidance for novices. Check mountaineering.ie for a list of clubs near you.
Another option is to undergo training through a professional rock climbing instructor. The qualification to look for here are the MIA (Mountain Instructors Award), the MIC and the IFMGA (Mountain Guide). These award holders are professionals with years of experience, and a high level of training and assessment too.
By selecting a professional instructor over the climbing wall and club option you get the following benefits.
- Professionally delivered training
- All climbing equipment is supplied in the course fee
- Accelerated learning; you can learn in one or two days what can take, weeks, months or even years through a climbing wall or club
- Professional advice on your ability and suitability for certain climbs, courses and pathways to development
2. Is the sport dangerous?
Like anything, when done correctly climbing can be very safe. I have witnessed some very dangerous practises at venues such as Dalkey Quarry in Dublin. A lot of the mistakes people are making, they’ve made for years. If they did just one day with a Mountaineering Instructor they’d be smarter and a hell of a lot safer too!
3. How long does it typically take to master the basic skills of rock climbing?
I run an extremely popular two day climbing course called ‘Learn to Rock’. Within hours people are tying knots, belaying and climbing a wide range of climbing routes, they’ve also learnt all about skills such as ‘smearing’, ‘edging’ and ‘lay-waying’. After two days they can rig belays and go climbing at most accessible venues in Ireland.
4. Is there a structured Rock Climbing training programme/ courses?
Not as such, but BOS (Bord Oiliúint Sléibhe) is the Irish Mountain Training Board. It is responsible for mountain training in the Republic of Ireland and is a sub-committee of Mountaineering Ireland.
It only sets and approves providers of the Single & Multi Pitch Awards, both of which are awards for those who climb already, are experienced and want to take people climbing themselves.
The SPA is the most common award available, it is a basic award that has a restrictive remit. It limits the award holder to accessible single pitch (no more than one rope length) rock faces. The MPA is not an award that is currently used a lot.
5. Are there Rock Climbing competitions in Ireland for Adults/ Juniors?
Yes, there’s the Irish Bouldering League (IBL).
6. How do you get involved competitively in Rock Climbing?
The IBL is the best starting point, check climbing.ie for details.
7. What kind of Rock Climbing Equipment should the beginner go for?
It’s best to try out equipment, climbing walls offer a limited chance to do this. Clubs generally speaking offer not chance to do this. So your best option is doing a course and getting advice from the instructor.
Second hand gear isn’t a great idea. If you do go down that route, never buy a second hand rope –ever! Hardware such as carabiners, cams, belay devices are normally fine as they are easy to inspect. Other software such as slings and harness should be considered carefully.
Check good websites such as greatoutdoors.ie and cotswoldoutdoor.com for gear, advice and reviews etc.
8. Where are the best rock climbing locations in Ireland?
Without a doubt, Donegal is head and shoulders above every other county in Ireland. In fact, if you were to combine all of the climbing in the counties outside of Donegal, it wouldn’t add up to what Donegal currently has on offer. Google ‘Donegal Sea Stack Climbing’ to see on YouTube some of the climbing we are doing up here
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